Sage & Braker

The Finest Products to Protect and Maintain Your Firearms

How to Clean a Gun with a Sage & Braker Gun Cleaning Kit

John McAdamsComment

Read on to learn how to clean a gun using a Sage & Braker gun cleaning kit.

In order to ensure that your firearms continue to function properly and shoot accurately, it is important that you appropriately clean them. Fortunately, guns that are properly cleaned and maintained will work reliably for many years. Keep reading to learn how to clean a gun using a Sage & Braker gun cleaning kit. While dirt, carbon, and lead/copper fouling will not damage your firearm by themselves, they can adversely affect the accuracy and reliability of your firearm. However, salt and water are the two worst enemies of firearms, so it is essential that you keep your firearms dry and clean them as soon as possible if they are ever exposed to salt.

When you are preparing to clean a gun, the first thing you’ll need is a well-stocked gun cleaning kit. Sage & Braker makes good quality bore cleaning kits and an all-in- one liquid Cleaning, Lubricate, and Protect (CLP). Together, they are the foundation of a gun cleaning kit. In addition to these items, you might want to add a toothbrush, a multi- tool, and a rag (you can use an old cotton t-shirt in a pinch) to your gun cleaning kit.

Once you’ve got your gun cleaning kit assembled, the next step in actually cleaning your gun is to make sure it is unloaded. Don’t get careless or complacent here: lots of people get shot by firearms they thought were unloaded each year.


For most routine cleaning sessions, you should only disassemble your firearm to the extent recommended in the owner’s manual. On a rifle, this usually means removing the bolt. For a shotgun, this may involve removing the barrel.

Next, spray some CLP down the barrel from both ends and let it soak for a few minutes. Do the same with the bolt face. The dirtier your firearm is, the longer you should let it sit and soak. 2-3 minutes or so will work on lightly used gun. However, if you’ve got a firearm that is extremely dirty, you might want to let it sit for 30 minutes or more. 


While you’re letting the CLP soak in the barrel, spray some CLP on your rag and wipe down all the easy to reach metal surfaces on your firearm like the outside of the barrel, the receiver, the bolt tracks, the inside of the chamber, and the trigger assembly. You can use the toothbrush to clean all the hard to reach parts on your firearm or those that are a little bit dirtier. 


Next, use the appropriate sized bore cleaning kit from your gun cleaning kit to clean the bore from chamber to muzzle. Simply insert the weight into the bore and lower it until it reaches the end of the barrel. Then, pull the rope through the barrel. Depending on how dirty your firearm is, you may need to repeat this several times. Fortunately, Sage & Braker bore cleaning kits combine the cleaning steps that normally were completed separately by patches and brushes into a single step.


After you’re done cleaning the bore of your firearm, clean the bolt face with a toothbrush to remove any fouling. Once that is complete, you are nearly done with cleaning your gun. Reassemble your firearm and then give it one last wipe down before putting it away.

Depending on the type of firearm you’re dealing with and how long it will be in storage, you may want to add some extra CLP. Be careful though: a little goes a long way here and you do not want to have a build-up of lubrication that obstructs the barrel or attracts dirt or dust.

When you reassemble your firearm and put it away, try not to touch any metal with your bare skin. Not only do fingerprints just look bad on a gun, but the salts naturally present in the oils on your skin can actually cause your gun to rust over a long enough timer period. 

Store your firearm in a secure, cool, dry place and replace everything in your gun cleaning kit.

I hope that you’ve found this article on how to clean a gun using a Sage & Braker gun cleaning kit helpful. As long as you do your job and properly clean your firearms after use, they will take care of you and won’t let you down when you need them.

If you'd like to see the video version of this CLICK HERE.

Enjoy this article on how to clean a gun using a Sage & Braker gun cleaning kit?

Please share it with your friends.

Respect for Guns

Fred BohmComment

I remember the first time I shot a gun. My father folded up his handkerchief, placed it on my shoulder, instructed me to hold that old 12 gauge tightly against it and gently squeeze the trigger.

I thought I was hit by the big yellow school bus that picked me up every morning.

Good God it hurt. Lesson well learned, don’t shoot a 12 gauge at 10 years old. The more important lesson came when we got home.

“Fred, always respect firearms. There is good and bad in them, it all depends on the user’s intent. They are only ever to be used for good. Now, part of respecting your guns is taking care of them. This means after every use, you clean them until they look like new. If you take care of them, you can hand them down from generation to generation.” My father explained.

To a ten year old, this meant I wouldn’t be watching  cartoons that morning, but instead scrubbing the old 12 gauge.

I got older, as time will tend to do to us all, but that advice never faded. “Respect your guns.”

Cleaning my guns after every use has become a ritual for me. It doesn’t matter if I’m on a week long hunt chasing pheasants in South Dakota or on a multi day backpacking/grouse hunting trip, my guns get cleaned every evening if they have been fired.

Technology certainly has made this a bit easier. And, well… this is one of the reasons I produced my own bore snakes. I wanted something that would be compact, simple to use and damn effective.

I wanted to make it easy to carry around, so I threw it in a canvas sack that would fit in my backpack, upland vest or cleaning box, whatever the situation called for. I didn’t like the fact I had to pour solvent on the brush part with other bore snakes. OK, so the make a brush that detaches from the rope portion.

Bingo. Problem solved. Take the added advantage of not having metal parts clinking around in the wash machine when I wash the rope portion and we’ve got a win win situation.

Unlike my first experience with firearms, cleaning after shooting has become a lot less painful. One or two pulls through the barrel, polish down the outside of the gun and go plan out that next hunting trip.

See you in the grouse woods,

// Fred

Practicing So We Don't Emabarrass Our Dogs

Fred BohmComment

Getting a little shooting time in before the season starts is not only fun, but necessary. Well at least if we want to keep our pups from finding new owners that can wield a shotgun properly. Sad to say, but I practice as to not disappoint my dog. Who owns who?

Nate doing justice to his Browning Citori.

Nate doing justice to his Browning Citori.

End of day cleaning.

End of day cleaning.

One hundred and twenty five shots through each barrel. One pull of Sage & Braker's bore snake through the top barrel. Not bad for three seconds worth of work.

One hundred and twenty five shots through each barrel. One pull of Sage & Braker's bore snake through the top barrel. Not bad for three seconds worth of work.

Knowing Your Caliber and MM'ers

Fred BohmComment

We wanted to clear up some of the confusion as to which caliber and mm to use for which types of guns. So we went straight to the expert. John McAdams over at TheBigGameHuntingBlog did us a huge favor by clarifying some of the general misconceptions on converting caliber to mm and vice versa. Enjoy and be sure to jump over to John's site.




Caliber is the approximate internal diameter of the barrel on a particular firearm or the diameter of a bullet and is usually expressed in inches or millimeters. In addition to using different units of measurement, different countries sometimes use different methods of measuring caliber. Because of these factors, deciphering the actual diameter of a bullet or the bore size of a firearm can be bewildering. However, I’m attempting to clear up some of the confusion in this article. Read on to find out exactly how to convert caliber to mm.
Switching between the metric (millimeters) and imperial (inches) systems of measurement is relatively straightforward. There are 10 millimeters (mm) in 1 centimeter (cm) and 2.54 centimeters in 1 inch (in). Therefore, multiply a bullet or bore caliber given in inches by 25.4 in order to convert it to millimeters. The opposite is also true: divide a given caliber expressed in millimeters by 25.4 in order to convert it to inches.
For example, .30″ and 7.62mm are equivalent (.3 multiplied by 25.4 is 7.62).
If you are looking for an approximation of the bore size or bullet diameter, that is all you need to know. However, if you want more specific details, then you’ll need to dig a little deeper.
Unfortunately, it seems like the deeper you dig, the more complicated and confusing things seem to get. For example, a rifle chambered in .30-06 Springfield (7.62x63mm) has a .30 caliber (7.62mm) bore. However, it shoots .308″ (7.82mm) bullets. Why the difference?
The caliber of a rifled barrel is measured one of two ways: either by measuring the distance between opposing lands (high points in the rifling) or opposing grooves (low points in the rifling) in the barrel. The .30-06 Springfield is an American designed cartridge and most (but not all) cartridges originating in the United States use groove measurements (which are larger than land measurements) when measuring bullet diameter. So, even though the bore of the rifle (measured across the lands) is .30″, the actual bullet diameter is .308″ because the bullet must closely match the groove diameter (.308″ in a .30-06) in order to form a good seal in the barrel.
To make things even more confusing, most cartridges that were designed in other countries use land measurements. Take the 7.62x39mm cartridge used by the AK-47 as an example. At first glance, this cartridge would appear to use a bullet with the same diameter as the .30-06 Springfield since they are both 7.62mm cartridges.
However, the 7.62x39mm cartridge (which was designed in the Soviet Union), measures bullet diameter using land measurements instead of groove measurements. Because of this, the groove measurement (and the actual diameter of the bullet) is .312″ (7.92mm) instead of .308″ (7.62mm), a difference of .004″.
For some applications, such as purchasing a bore snake, that difference is not significant at all. Since they are usually sold to fit a range of bore sizes, a .30 caliber bore snake will work equally well on rifles chambered in .30-06 Springfield, .303 British, and 7.62x39mm (among others).
However, .004″ is a significant difference when it comes to actually shooting a bullet. While it may seem obvious, the way to avoid problems with improperly sized bullets is to shoot the right ammunition in your guns. If you’re hand loading, you should use a reputable reloading manual to ensure you’re 100% certain you’re using the right sized bullet when hand loading for a particular cartridge.

Out of State Expeditions for Upland Game

Fred Bohm3 Comments
North eastern Colorado pheasant hunt.

North eastern Colorado pheasant hunt.

Alaska to hunt Dall Sheep? Yes. Maybe a trip to Spain for an Ibex. Of course. How about Montana or Utah for pheasant? No? 

Well why should all the destination hunts be reserved for the bigger four legged fellas. Make a trip this season out west to go make some feathers float from the sky with a well landed shot from a two barrel. 

If you haven't seen the aspens in full color shift while chasing dusky grouse at 10,000 feet on the spine of North America, then I can assure you, you haven't lived. This fall do yourself a favor and make it a point to grab the dog, your scattergun and a camera to capture what could be the most eye awakening hunt you've ever been on. You don't need to spend half your retirement on tags to enjoy some of the finest scenery the west has to offer.  

Here Are Non-Resident Small Game License Costs (click state for direct link to official websites)


  • Season: $160 (includes fishing license)


  • Season: $163.65
  • Two Day: $47.01


  • Season: $66 (includes $10 habitat stamp)
  • One Day: $21 (includes $10 habitat stamp)
  • Additional Day: $5


  • Season: $97.75
  • Three Day: $35.50


  • Season: $120
  • Three Day: $50


  • Season: $152 (includes upland stamp)
  • One Day: $31 (includes upland stamp)
  • Additional Consecutive Day: $8

New Mexico

  • Season: $65
  • Four Day: $33


  • Season: $148.50
  • Three Day: $26.50


  • Season: $65
  • Three Day: $32


  • Season: $183.50
  • Three Day: $68


  • Season: $72